2013-01-27 Cabinet Catches

Looking over the cabinet hardware after installing the reassembled cupboard doors, I found the latch hardware was pitted with peeling chrome.  Unfortunately the material appears to be chrome on zinc, not brass, so there isn’t much hope for restoring it to any kind of shape. I did a fair amount of internet research and determined that the latches are manufactured by Perko and this is the 3/8″ offset version because the catch mounts on the frame of the cabinet carcass, which is a fraction of an inch below the non-flush door.

Pricing varied pretty widely but I did locate a place that had them at just under $20 a set.  This was just before West Marine changed its price matching policy, so I was still able to get them to order up a dozen for me.  Seven were available immediately and I had to wait about ten days to get the balance.

2012-01-20 Fireplace

The Cole fireplace is a solid fuel burning furnace designed for use with solid fuels like wood, wood pellets, charcoal or even coal (although I heard a strong recommendation to use bituminous coal rather than the other kind that smokes a lot).

It’s a simple construction with a two drawer ash tray beneath a firebox and metal grate beneath.  By sliding out the drawers or sliding up the damper on the front you can adjust the draw and combustion rate.  The exhaust port is on top, a 3″ circular port to mate with a 3″ circular flue duct.  I found flue was a little long.  This was kind of strange because it must have fit at some point.  It may be that they had the elbows adjusted for more acute angles.  I adjusted them to get as smooth a transition as possible.

In any case I cut it the flue down to size with some tin snips and set up a fire to test it.  I built the fire in the drawer which turned out to be the ashbox, so it didn’t draw well.  When I found and installed the grate and built the fire up higher I had a much better draw and the bits of wood burned very nicely.

The stove heats up quite a bit. The original installation had the fireplace surrounded by 2″ square tiles.  I’ll probably go with some 4×12″ floor tile I found at restore that is teak colored wood grain planks.  For my test I put the furnace on top of some tile coasters and kept the heat low.

2013-01-19 Reassembled Cabinets

After spending a few days organizing materials from the boat I found a pile of door materials in the aft cabin that were reassembled into doors for the galley and anchor locker.

The cane-faced doors were designed for improved ventilation over solid face frames.  The wood will need refinishing but the cane was in fairly decent shape for its age.  I was able to pair up the materials into doors and panels and other than a few chips and dings, nothing was really missing.

I used Gorilla Glue (a water resistant polyurethane) to glue the doors and clamped them with some bar clamps from harbor freight.  The glue is somewhat flexible and waterproof but not very strong.  I think a better choice would be Titebond III or the similar Elmer’s Wood Glue Max for a couple of reasons:  they are stronger glues and the glue doesn’t swell up and blow apart the joint as much.



2013-01-01 engine work

Today I bought a gear puller set at Harbor Freight and successfully removed the harmonic balancer from the crankshaft. The alignment key didn’t want to come out though, but I don’t think that will interfere with the disassembly.

I found that removing the flat washer and lock washer from the pulley bolt provided access for the entire pulley to slide off over the bolt.
Next i tried to disassemble the starter shaft. I removed the 5mm machine set screw from the starter shaft, but I could not figure out how to remove the shaft itself. The manual makes it look like it unscrews, but I am not sure.
I was taking some photos of the fuel lift pump, fuel pump and water pump and accidentally dropped the washer at the bottom if the fuel pump spring into the sump. I will need to drain that tomorrow, anyway.
I opened all the ports during the day to air the boat out and closed them this evening.
I had a chance tonight to look at some of the prices for Yanmar engine parts.  Insane!  $400 pistons and $65 push rods.  $90 engine mounts. $65 for the water pump cover plate. $400 gasket sets.  $200 piston ring sets
Even if I do find the cause of this engines seizure, replacing the rings and cylinder liner would probably set me back $400 or $500, assuming the connecting rod isn’t bent.
I cleaned up a bit, removing the electrical cord, fire extinguishers, and sheet lines from the boat.  I found a nice outdoor electrical cord, 12′ long with outlets in line every 3′. I bought two.

2013-01-01 Engine Work


I used a gear puller set I bought at Harbor Freight to Remove the harmonic balancer.  The impact wrench I bought with the hope it might shake the crank loose had no effect, but it did a great job taking off the bolt that secures the pulley.  Then It was pretty simple to attach the gear puller behind the harmonic balancer and pull it off the shaft.  Reinstalling the bolt gave me a nice spot for the tool to push against.

Getting the water pump loose

I also worked the water pump housing free.  It was stiff and held on by mostly paint and goo.

The high pressure fuel pump was also removed.  There is a low pressure one, too.



The allen key here was used to remove the bolt. I don’t know if it secures the pin or the shaft itself!

I removed the screw that holds allen screw on the end of the crank start but could not get the pin out.  It didn’t seem to want to drift loose or unscrew.  The only reference photo I have is the black and white shop manual photo but that is from a slightly different engine.