Looking over the cabinet hardware after installing the reassembled cupboard doors, I found the latch hardware was pitted with peeling chrome.  Unfortunately the material appears to be chrome on zinc, not brass, so there isn’t much hope for restoring it to any kind of shape. I did a fair amount of internet research and determined that the latches are manufactured by Perko and this is the 3/8″ offset version because the catch mounts on the frame of the cabinet carcass, which is a fraction of an inch below the non-flush door.

Pricing varied pretty widely but I did locate a place that had them at just under $20 a set.  This was just before West Marine changed its price matching policy, so I was still able to get them to order up a dozen for me.  Seven were available immediately and I had to wait about ten days to get the balance.

The Cole fireplace is a solid fuel burning furnace designed for use with solid fuels like wood, wood pellets, charcoal or even coal (although I heard a strong recommendation to use bituminous coal rather than the other kind that smokes a lot).

It’s a simple construction with a two drawer ash tray beneath a firebox and metal grate beneath.  By sliding out the drawers or sliding up the damper on the front you can adjust the draw and combustion rate.  The exhaust port is on top, a 3″ circular port to mate with a 3″ circular flue duct.  I found flue was a little long.  This was kind of strange because it must have fit at some point.  It may be that they had the elbows adjusted for more acute angles.  I adjusted them to get as smooth a transition as possible.

In any case I cut it the flue down to size with some tin snips and set up a fire to test it.  I built the fire in the drawer which turned out to be the ashbox, so it didn’t draw well.  When I found and installed the grate and built the fire up higher I had a much better draw and the bits of wood burned very nicely.

The stove heats up quite a bit. The original installation had the fireplace surrounded by 2″ square tiles.  I’ll probably go with some 4×12″ floor tile I found at restore that is teak colored wood grain planks.  For my test I put the furnace on top of some tile coasters and kept the heat low.

After spending a few days organizing materials from the boat I found a pile of door materials in the aft cabin that were reassembled into doors for the galley and anchor locker.

The cane-faced doors were designed for improved ventilation over solid face frames.  The wood will need refinishing but the cane was in fairly decent shape for its age.  I was able to pair up the materials into doors and panels and other than a few chips and dings, nothing was really missing.

I used Gorilla Glue (a water resistant polyurethane) to glue the doors and clamped them with some bar clamps from harbor freight.  The glue is somewhat flexible and waterproof but not very strong.  I think a better choice would be Titebond III or the similar Elmer’s Wood Glue Max for a couple of reasons:  they are stronger glues and the glue doesn’t swell up and blow apart the joint as much.