I’m getting set to sell off the old Datsun 260z to get a bit more room in the driveway. I cleaned up some rust in the spare tire well and found that the red/orange engine paint I found at Kragen was a perfect match
Today, I used the impact sockets and pneumatic impact driver to try to shake the seized diesel Yanmar free. While I bought an impact driver yesterday evening at Harbor Freight, I found some pneumatic tools u bought at Costco almost 20 years ago when I bought the compressor to power the stapler to reroof the house.
It’s been a couple weeks since I added automatic transmission fluid to the exposed cylinder top of my Yanmar 8hp engine. It doesn’t look much different today, although the boat’s a little out of plumb making the fluid a little off level. I tried using a box wrench to turn the pulley nut to no avail.
Recently, I found an interesting suggestion on the unseize engine website: use a pneumatic or electric impact wrench. This will set up resonance vibrations in the motor and is less damaging than the breaker bar approach. I intend to try this tomorrow. I believe I do have a pneumatic impact wrench but I am not sure about the socket. May mean a trip to Harbor Freight.
The other things I did to today: the companionway drop boards fit in place today. I tried a week or two ago and could only get the lower board in place.
Cabin sole boards were reinstalled.
The companionway doors are now closing almost without effort. there’s another 12v light in the forward cabin, but it needs a lens over it
Carlos arrived at 9AM and we went off to Home Depot in San Jose on Hillsdale where we picked up 3 railroad ties. These things are creosote soaked blocks of redwood that measure about 7×8″ x 9 feet, and they weigh nearly 160 lbs each. We also got three 8′ lengths of pressure treated 1×6. The guy rang me up for 33 of those, so I had to get a refund. I also bought a 10′ fiberglass ladder because the boat went up some 5 inches and the 8′ ladder I have was a little sketchy and just came to the caprail height as it was.
Back at the house The ties were chainsaw cut to 22″ lengths. We had about ten pieces before the chainsaw got dull. Then the trailer was jacked with a big 20-ton bottle jack. When we finished each wheel was about 2″ off the ground, which will allow some margin for settlement. The whole process took about 4 hours, after which I learned that with the trailer level, the boat is not level inside. The bow is too high! That means we’ll need to pull out some of the forward stack to get things back into line.
We also spent some time chocking up the front end of the mast to take the load off the pulpit frame and the weaker bowsprit wood that supports it. We used a 4×4 cut to 27-1/2 inches with notch sitting on top of the bowsprit.
Next week I plan to get get the mast down off the boat and on to some sawhorses we bought today.
A few months ago, even before I went out to get the boat I was able to get a stack of Nor’sea cushions from Dan, owner of Merilee in Sausalito. Although the color isn’t ideal they will let me evaluate the potential of an upgrade of my boat to the newer layout. I have the earlier, more traditional fold down board.
I tried test fitting the cushions.Cockpit cushions didn’t look very close to Aft berth dimensions. The main cabin cushions could work, but the color is really horrible. May try some RIT due to turn them dark purple or brown or anything. The forspeak locker is much bigger. I’m willing to give up the nav table but would like to keep thehanging locker and stove. Maybe the hanging locker could swap sides.
Unfortunately the Merilee’s cockpit berth cushions aren’t very close fits for the Aft Cabin. Although, I may be able to use the foam somehow.
I did about 90 minutes’ work on the motor, using a pair of vise grip pliers to loosen the a stubborn bolt holding the water pump housing to the motor front plate. The same pliers were great for removing the water pump impeller cover screws; all but one were stripped and/or frozen. Next, I loosened the hose clamps securing the seawater plumbing and gently pried the cover off. The impeller had all its rubber vanes but there was a lot of build up on them and it was clear they weren’t moving. I was able to pry off the impeller, but the rubber piece separated from its bushing, which I removed separately. The motor still could not be turned at the crankshaft, so I will need to continue the disassembly.
I wonder if the seawater that got into the engine sump entered through the water pump, intake or exhaust ports? The exhaust path is most logical, back from raw water burped through the water lift muffler into the exhaust port (if the engine was run with the starter without ignition), but it was the intake valve that was frozen, suggesting it was somehow involved.
I took another look at the Yanmar service manual, and see I am a good ways toward having the engine torn down. With the head already off and the intake and exhaust assemblies disconnected, it’s just the fuel pump, separator and a couple lines before the V pulley comes off, at which point it should be possible to remove the front and side covers from the engine and get a very clear view as to what has the motor siezed. I suspect at this point it is just the piston rings frozen to the cylinder walls, but worst case it could invlove the crank or camshaft. Time will tell. Then some informed decisions can be made about whether a partial rebuild or repower is most appropriate.
It will be a good project for this Saturday before I plan to do some stabilization of the trailer, and possibly pull the mast down on next Sunday.
The Nor’sea Aft Cabin has been nicknamed the garage by some because it tends to collect all the sailing equipment, sails, anchors, lines, RIBs and other goodies. This post is about an attempt to address a big tangled pile of anchor rode.
Straightening up the Aft Cabin
Tonight I sorted out about 200 feet of anchor rode in the aft cabin and stored it in the anchor rode bag I bought today at West Marine. I like the bag material but the tie at the top is undersized for use with heavy lines or especially chain. I may pull it out and run a 1/4″ yacht braid or 3/16″ amsteel scrap through the hemmed border.
I found a nice ventilation fan at Restore today for $8. They also had a bar sink faucet for $12 that may work well in the main cabin, and a Stihl 12″electric chainsaw for $30. I found I could get a new one with a warranty for $50, so I passed on the saw.
West Marine Sale – West Marine is having a $20 off on $100 purchase today, so I picked up an anchor rode bucket, a tide watch, rigging knife and some Cap’t Tolley’s Creeping Crack Cure that I thought I might try on Lilikoi. Does it work? I don’t know yet but you have to love the video!
BoatsUS sent me an email today with a PDF telling me that I needed to complete the survey soon to keep my policy active. However, considering I don’t have the boat in the water and don’t have plans to do so in the immediate future, any survey wouldn’t be able to assess things like the standing / running rigging, engine or seaworthiness. I called them to ask about deferring the survey until I spring and they suggested we revise the policy for storage only, and I’ll need to complete a survey before I splash the boat. Fine by me – the boat isn’t going to sink in my driveway!
In reviewing some photos of other boats I it occurred to me that instead of being varnished wood, the cabin ceiling could be painted white, and this would address some of the water stains and simplify the restoration after the leaking deck hardward has been rebedded.
Wood putty and paint could be used where it would otherwise have been necessary to strip out and replace a lot of the finish material. It’s quicker, less expensive, and the resulting white ceiling would have a lighter, more open feel. I will need to give this some thought because I really do like the look of the wood cabin top.