2012-12-03 Lilikoi – After the rain

Posted on by
Reply

It rained nearly nonstop during a system of storms that hit the bay area sequentially through Sunday Morning. With a brief break in the rain today, I stopped by Bair Island Marina to check out my early 70’s Caltalina 27, Lilikoi. The boat looked great after a cleansing rain, but I could tell coming down the companionway that there had been some freshwater entry.  The carpeting was a little soaked around the bilge area. I sopped out the remaining water in the bilge and opened the forward  hatch, setting up a fan in the companionway to get some better airflow to help things dry out.

Here’s a list of a few things I need to do for Lilikoi for winter:

  • Route the bilge hose more permanently.  I have it draped out the comanionway and over the side.  It needs to go aft toward where the cockpit drains run out.  This will reduce the backflow and eliminate the need for having a duckbill (one way valve) in line
  • Cut a new bilge cover.  I need to replace the existing bilge cover which is broken in a couple of places. I’d like to get something more waterproof, maybe some Starboard or something.  Need to measure accurately and find materials.
  • Confirm how fresh water from the deck / cockpit is getting into the bilge. To do this I’ll need to run a water hose into the bay underneath the cockpit scuppers and see if it’s draining in from there, or the deck.  Might as well try this while the bilge is already wet
  • Relocate the bilge pump and sensor. Effectively, I need to swap the two; the forward part of the bilge is the deepest, so the pump should go there.
  • Paint the bilge with some appropriate grey paint.
  • Tap some plugs into the two through-hulls.

2012-12-02 Work for Sunday – Cleanup and the Electrical Monster

Posted on by
2

Diesel in the Sump

The sump continues to collect diesel.  I believe the water in the sump was displacing the diesel and now that it’s been removed the tank can leak freely.  I need to empty the tank rather than continue sucking the leaky stuff out of the bilge.  The problem is, I am not sure how much is there and how to go about properly disposing of it. My wife is getting sensitized to that diesel aroma.  It takes about 3 washes to get it out of a pair of blue jeans.  My GoJo hand cleaner works well for my hands.

Cleaning the Head

Continuing the cleaning process, I cleared out the head area.  There’s no plumbing in here so it’s just kind of a closet with a big cutout in the wall for the holding tank.  I found a tub of mixed hardware, many of which were mild steel drywall screws that had rusted.  I did find a few jewels in there:

1) The mounts that secure the top of the companionway ladder were cleaned and installed.  Now it’s not quite as scary decending the ladder!

2) Several of the strikers for the cabinets.  These are just in fair shape, but it helps having the original equipment as a place to work from.

Lots of Formula 409 and scrubbing were required to restore the head to some kind of order.  Packed away the following items:

  • two marine fire extinguishers
  • a big roll of 3″ wide fiberglass tape
  • a couple blocks and strips of teak wood
  • about ten bottles of gold and silver paint with some brusheds that the PO had used on the logo.  I’ll give these to the Girl Scouts for Christmas projects.

The following items were trashed:

  • lots of wood putty, silicone and so forth
  • some sheets and discs of wet sandpaper
  • a rusty sparkplug socket and a miscellany of rubbish

Electrical

The wiring is pretty nightmarish.  The fuse panel is hanging from its hinges and I noticed it has both AC and DC breakers in the same box.  That’s only marginally scary. The thing is the AC side is directly opposite the ground bus bar.  About the scariest thing was the battery charger AC input was wrapped and taped and just kind of hanging.

I spent some time tracing out the wiring.  That battery charger was actually pretty useful in that it allowed me to confirm which battery leads were which.  The color means nothing, unfortunately.  I wired in the group 27 12V battery I was using for the sump and played around with the panel.  I found that by turning on the POWER switch and the CABIN lights I could get the cabin lights to turn on.  Three interior lights and the forward Engine bay light was working.  The rear one looks to be missing a bulb.  I haven’t dared to try any of the other switches yet because there is a lot of abandoned wiring.

2012-12-01 Tarps and Cleaning

Posted on by
Reply

Saturday morning

Tarps!

I replaced the large 17×20 tarp with two smaller tarps. The big one had collected so much water that I need smaller tarps to let the cockpit drains and side drains do their work.  I put a 9×12 on the main cabin, tented over the mast, and a 5×7 on the rear cabin.

Cleaning the Aft Cabin

Continuing the work of cleaning out the rear cabin I found

  • Large fisherman’s anchor and rode
  • Two danforth anchors, large and small
  • Two big Coleman coolers with broken hinges.  One has no latch.  I will probably Craigslist these for free pickup by some fisherman
  • A 1980 era VHF radio. This went straight into the trash
  • Collection of teak and cabinet door bits.  I was able to sort this out into some semblance of order. I also found one of the side stiles for the main companionway drop board.  I am still missing a piece from the main companionway door and a stile from the rear companionway drop board
  • I found the oval cutouts for the side of the engine bay
  • big square boards that go at the bottom of the footwell
  • a pair of men’s pants.  Dickies – hey my size – 34″ x 30″
  • Lots of running rigging or what may be either sheets or the mast raising kit?  I am not sure.
  • Crab traps, floats and line
  • two nautical charts
  • Zodiac raft with a repair in the bottom and a repair kit

Electrical – Getting the AC working

I used one of my camper 30A adapters to run AC into one of the two Marinco outlets on the starboard cabintop and the AC outlets in the main cabin and aft cabin now function. I have a worklight going and plugged a fan in the aft cabin to get some ventilation going in there.

Tunes

I used a gift certificate the kind folks at Cardica had given me a couple years back to buy some 6×9 speakers to install in the existing 6×9 cutouts in two of the kicker panels of the main cabin.  Melissa and I ran over to Fry’s Electronics at 8:30 just before closing and selected a pair.   I think having a stereo in there will make the work go faster.  I’ll probably put the speakers in some garbage bags to keep them dry and functional until the dust moisture and excitement die down.

I found the sump cover in the hanging locker so I pulled that out to dry.  The bottom looks pretty shot but I might be able to relaminate something so the teak pattern will match.  same story with the two cabin sole sump covers around the mast.

Scary red wire

I found a particularly scary red wire that runs down the floor of the cabin and was drilled through and under the cockpit sole then back up the other side.  I have no idea why they didn’t go through the cabinets 3′ away, but it’s perilously close to the edge of the boat.  I’ll figure out if this is still needed and relocate it.  the holes will need to be epoxy’d up… carefully!

Engine work

I picked up some Automatic Transmission Fluid and a battery bulb.  Juergen a mechanic who was working on an old wood boat at Coyote Point marina suggested that I fill the cylinder with ATF or diesel fuel to try to get the motor unsiezed.  I’ll try anything at this point: there is little risk! I spent almost an hour trying to find the spark plug before I remembered it was a diesel and doesn’t have one.  D’oh!  I removed the intake port and found it matched a gasket that was floating around the battery compartment, so it was nice to find a home for that.    The intake valve looked to be closed but I wiped out some rust and put about 3 tablespoons in before it overflowed.  Hours later it hadn’t gone down so I decided to have a look under the valve cover.  There is very little vertical clearance in the engine bay.  I had just enough room to remove the valve cover, if I tipped it just so.  I found the engine appears to be at the end of its exhaust stroke.  I’d have to open the other side to confirm.  I couldn’t get the intake valve to move for the life of me. The springs are tough but not that tough. I could squeeze it a bit but I couldn’t push the valve stem down any.  Nor could I convince the rocker on the other side to move.  The valve cover incorporates a decompression lever intended to let you crank start the engine, but when I looked at it it appears it presses down on the exhaust valve stem, which isn’t much help.

On Sunday I pulled the exhaust side.  I loosened four bolts and removed the exhaust manifold. I also had to loosen two hoses to pull away the exhaust. (It looks like there is a crack in the exhaust manifold unless it’s just a detail in the molding, but that’s a problem I am looking forward to having to deal with assuming I get the thing running.)  They’re all 13 mm bolts, about 4″ long threaded in the lower inch, and I had to dig through my tools to find a 13.  I have so many 12s and 14s it was driving me crazy!  If found a 13mm socket with a 3/8″ drive and an extension bar.  The first three came out rather easily, but the fourth was crazy hard. I had to brace myself into a knot and use my leg to push the handle of the wrench and it finally squeaked free.  I am amazed Teresa Carey was able to tear her engine down to repair a bent connecting rod by herself, but I guess mine had an additional 10 years of corrosion working against me.

The gasket had some RTV on it and when the last screw came out there was some motor oil (very dirty motor oil) coming out of the passage.  It stopped after I put the screw back in.  at least there is some oil in there!

The intake port was wide open. However, the piston is probably near Top Dead Center (TDC) so it only took a few ounces to fill it. As I pushed the exhaust manifold out of the way I heard a few cups of water come rushing out.  I don’t know if it was in the exhaust or raw water passages though.  It would explain the engine being siezed.

I figure there are a couple options. Either the cylinder rings rusted in the cylinder wall due to some exposure to moisture, or the motor had some more catastrophic event like a thrown valve or broken connecting rod.  I didn’t see metal flakes in the oil but I have not drained it yet.

The hope is that the oil in the cylinder will eventually creep down and lube things up enough that I can turn the main crank with a wrench.  I still haven’t been able to find the starting crank.  Juregen said it could take up to a week, so hold your breath and check back!

Tying down for the move

Posted on by
Reply

Saturday morning we returned to Riverbend Marina in Newport, Oregon, to complete the preparations for travel to California.  I used three 3″ wide tow straps I found at Home Depot and a bunch of jumbo zip ties to managethe standing rigging.

Chain secured to the bow stem

Tie down just behind the wheels loops across the gunwhales and cockpit, just between the winches and the cleats.

Mast was secured in three places. This tiedown secures the tabernacle end to the pulpit by pulling it down to the winch. I used the 1.5″ straps and was careful not to make this one too tight.

Tie down in front of the wheels. This loops across the gunwhales and in front of the cabin top

All tied up and ready to roll. Three bands secure the hull, in addition to the bow chain. Three or smaller straps secure the mast, which is supported on the pushpit and boom vang, with a 2×6 positioned just behind the mast step to provide a third point of support.